Camp 2 and Back

"Just down from Camp 2 at 6444m having carried a load (sleeping bag, mats, downjacket, gloves etc, etc...) to there via Camp 1. I'm starting to notice the altitude. Camp 3 will be established at the beginning of May. We're not allowed up until after May 2 due to the set restrictions unless the north side Chinese team summits early. Another carry of more summit kit including O2 mask and more down gear. I think that once Camp 3 is established we'll start watching the weather more carefully. Ideally, we hope for a summit week of 15-20 May then a week long trek out to Kathmandu for the end of May. Missing my Tee!" MB

Down from Camp 1

"Just down from Camp 1 where it blew a hoolie last night. I had too thin a mat and bag but I'll add to them on the next carry up. It's weird to see people climbing up with a sherpa behind them carrying all their gear and we're there with big packs taking our own gear up. Went well Friday and spent 2 days at Camp 1 as Camp 2 is not established yet. Last night was warmer as I wore my Millet Summit Jacket in bed!!! My "roomie" Hoeng (doctor), lost his waterbottle and was saved by an Indian climbing team who offered him water and thyme drinks. He was the definition of "wasted" when he arrived at Camp 1... At least 2 days in BC now enjoying not having to melt snow for drinks and use pee bottles. Yippee!" MB

Base Camp

"Arrived Base Camp today 12th April. We arrived at Lukla Airport from Kathmandu and trekked through Phakding (2610m), Namche (3440m), Deboche (3710m), Dingboche (4410m), Loboche (4910m), Gorak Shep (5140m) and now Base Camp (5315m). It's very busy here with lots of teams settling in and practising with their climbing gear. We have a full day off tomorrow so a little exploration of the whole base camp will be called for!" MB

Last Minute Stuff..

The latest is that soliders will stand guard at Base Camp and Camp 2 to prevent climbers going above Camp 2 earlier than May 10th. The use of satellite phones and internet is under liason officer supervision until May 10th so updates may be sparse. Owing to the continuing social unrest in Tibet, the Chinese authorities have forced all North Side Everest expeditions to cancel their 2008 plans. The Chinese hope to carry the Olympic flame all the way to the summit of Everest as some sort of “gesture”, but their intense paranoia about the attempt being filmed and leaked precluded the Chinese Tibetan Mountain Authority from issuing suitable permits. It is perhaps a broader recognition of the Government’s fear that provoked countrywide riots. The Chinese government basically handed the Tibetan separatists a publicity “slam-dunk”. On a lighter note Olympus have sent out a spare battery for the new 1030SW - thanks Abs! Tara and I have just come back from Bali where I kept training in the gym so things are good to go.
MB

The Agreement

There is an agreement that the South side teams will not summit before 10th May, to allow the Chinese time to do their Olympic torch thing. This doesn’t stop anyone with permits climbing the mountain on the south side - it's just they can't summit before the 10th. However on the North side the Chinese are not allowing anyone in until after the 10th May to avoid any congestion, which is obviously way too late to acclimatise and climb within the usual safer weather periods. MB

It's Now The South Side

NEWS: This morning, China announced it is restricting world mountaineers from climbing Everest and Cho Oyu. Only Chinese climbers will be allowed, carrying the Olympic torch to the summit in a supposed celebration of sportsmanship and Olympic ideals. The Chinese have revoked all team permits from climbing Everest, Cho Oyu, Lhakpa Ri & North Col for this year. The official line: "concern of heavy climbing activities, crowded climbing routes and increasing environmental pressures will cause potential safety problems in Qomolangma areas (included Mt. Cho-Oyu) in this Spring season, the limited capacity of reception in addition, we are not ability to accept your expedition, so please postpone your climbing project to after 10th May. For this please accept our deeply regret." So we're going to see if we can climb the South Side, like everyone else.
MB

The Climb

Mark will be attempting to climb Everest (also called Chomolungma) to it's summit at 8,848 metres (29,029 ft) via the North Ridge in Spring 2008. The route begins from the north side of Everest in Tibet. Expeditions trek to the Rongbuk Glacier, setting up Base Camp at (5800m) on a gravel plain just below the glacier. An intermediate base camp (6400m)is used during acclimatisation. Camp 1 (7010m) North Col provides the springboard for the remainder of the ascent. Camp 2 (7500m) situated at the top of the North Ridge snowslopes. Camp 3 (7800m) high up on the North Ridge. Camp 4 (8300m) established below the first step and the start of the more technically challenging section of the ridge. Climbers must first make their way through three rock bands known as First, Second and Third Steps. Once above these steps, the final summit slopes (50 to 60 degrees) lead to the top.